Musandam Peninsula, Oman. While European divers have dived forever in the Middle East, Americans are
just beginning to have a look. Dan Clements (Everett, WA) spent two weeks in November diving the northern portion
of the Musandam Peninsula, which forms the southern side of the Straits of Hormuz. Visibility ran from 30
to 45 feet and the water was 77 to 81 degrees. “My first week was with Extra Divers in Khasab, the second as part
of a Reef Check study with Biosphere. After a multi-day check out, I was allowed to solo dive with my photography
gear. The crew were exceptional and so was the diving - - lots of endemics, including rays, dolphins, nudis
and some of the most pristine coral I have ever seen. There are hundreds of miles of coastline, but just one operator
in the area. The only other divers we encountered were on the southeast side of the Peninsula, originating
from Dibba. Khasab is an easy three-hour drive from Dubai.” (www.musandam-diving.com; www.reefcheck.org)
Astrolabe Reef, Fiji. First, there was a serious cyclone in March and while we have no reports of significant
damage to dive operations, you might check in before you go. That said, for the best combination of value and
time spent, Fiji is a good place for Americans to get a serious taste of Indo-Pacific diving. Let us direct you to
two operations diving the Astrolabe Reef.
Sandy Falen (Topeka, KS) went with Mai Dive in November, with visibility up to 120 feet and water averaging
74 degrees. “An all-inclusive dive resort on Ono Island, part of the Kadavu group in southern Fiji. After the 11-
hour Air Pacific crossing from LAX to Nadi, and a five-hour layover at a nearby hotel, I took a one-hour flight
on Pacific Sun, Air Pacific’s affiliate, to Kadavu. Mai Dive picks up its guests at the airport for the 90-minute
boat trip to Ono. The bungalows are simple but lovely, with wonderful beds and modern facilities. Food was
outstanding, with local dishes and fresh fish, hamburgers and pizza. Service was warm and efficient. Homebaked
bread or rolls at every meal. Organic produce is grown on site so there was always fresh fruit and veggies.
The Astrolabe Reef surrounds Ono on three sides. Boat trips were generally 10 to 15 minutes. Dive sites included
bommies punctuated with stunning swim-throughs, pinnacles and drifts along walls encrusted with gorgeous
soft corals. We saw sharks on nearly every dive, sea snakes, Napoleon wrasse, schooling barracuda, giant morays
and a wide variety of colorful tropicals such as fire dartfish, anthias, anemone fish, Moorish idols, triggers, and
unicornfish. We did a few drift dives but only once was the current ripping. Dive crew were professional and
safety-conscious but also good-humored and a lot of fun. I made all of my arrangements via email and fax, with
inquiries answered promptly. I’ve spent more on Caribbean trips but for exotic beauty and pristine diving, it’s
hard to beat the South Pacific.” (www.maidive.com)
Debbie Pasich (San Diego, CA) dived the Astrolabe Reef with Mad Fish Dive Center at Matava Resort
in November. “Dive sites were anywhere from a 10- to 30-minute ride and surface intervals. Outside the reef
there was always an ocean swell, between two and three feet. Inside the reef was calm but because the weather
was unseasonably windy, we usually had some surface chop. I dove Manta Reef twice, with no less than
ten mantas total. At Eagle’s Rock, at least 25 white-tip, black-tip and gray reef sharks of various sizes were
schooling together in the reef inlet. Japanese Gardens had a beautiful assortment of soft corals. Besides
the largest variety of butterfly fish I’ve ever seen, I saw a dolphin, a Napoleon wrasse, a sea snake, several
lionfish, octopus, turtles, giant clams, eels, clownfish and stunning nudibranchs. With traditional thatched
bures tucked into the mountainside of Kadavu Island, Matava is a beautiful place to get away from it all.
The newest (honeymoon) bure at the top of the hill (94 stairs of various sizes to climb) has an absolutely
spectacular view. It’s an eco-resort and a majority of the power is supplied by solar so leave your hairdryer
at home. Maggie, the resort host, has a unique style of hospitality and makes sure that you feel welcome. All
the homemade breads were terrific. Lunches were varied and dinners ranged from satisfactory to quite good
with excellent flavors. Soups were extraordinary. This close to New Zealand you will likely be served lamb
for at least one dinner.” (www.matava.com).
Blue Wilderness, Hawaii. Looking for an alternate operation on the Big Island? Dan Clements (Everett,
WA) says, “I’ve dived with 10 different Kona operators and Blue Wilderness is one of the best, especially if
you’re staying in the Waikoloa area. It is located in Queen’s Marketplace and launches a few miles north at
Paniao. Diving is off a zodiac. I found the coral, fish and invertebrates much better here than at Kailua dive
locations. At one point, I was diving lava tubes with whales ‘talking’ 100 yards away. The tubes amplified the
sound and it was magical. Turtle cleaning stations, lots to see, good operation.” (www.divebluewilderness.com)
Anguilla. It’s one of those tony Caribbean islands that rarely gets ink about diving. Daniel Spitzer (Piermont,
NY) reports, “I have been visiting Anguilla for some 17 years now and have seen the progressive degradation
of the entire Caribbean reef system, from Grand Turk in the north to Curacao in the south. That said, if your
travels take you to Anguilla, by all means dive with Anguillian Divers. Small, intimate and personal, they have
decent equipment and friendly smiles. One of my favorite dives anywhere is Blowing Rock - - amazing underwater
topography, variable conditions (crashing waves on one side, calm on the other) and routine sighting of
pelagics - - turtles, spotted eagle rays, even 10-plus minutes with a dolphin two years ago. Ask for this dive by
name. Another fun dive, especially for newer divers, is the Osterdeep wreck, covered with orange cup coral and
teeming with barracuda, jacks, large lobsters, etc.” (www.anguilliandiver.com)
Cape Eleuthera Resort, Bahamas. Mark Miller (Dallas, TX) tells us that if you’re an experienced diver
grown weary of being told how long to dive or to change your diving profile to accommodate “beginning” divers,
try Cape Eleuthera’s dive operation. “Neal Watson has a passion for diving that is reflected in how much
freedom he gives his customers. His first question is, ‘What kind of diving do you like?’ From there, the whole
process revolves around the diver. The water is beautiful in this area of the Bahamas, with excellent visibility.
There are numerous wall dives at 100-plus feet, the top of the reef is perfect for shallower dives. The coral is in
good shape and numerous fish abound. The resort is very secluded with luxurious two-bedroom condos and also
offers biking, hiking, snorkeling, fishing and tennis.” (www.capeeleuthera.com)
San Carlos, Mexico. Ed Raver (Tijeras, NM) tells us that travel to San Carlos on the Sea of Cortez is now
a “hassle-free zone,” the same as travel to Rocky Point farther north. “No visa required all the way to Guaymas.
Diving was fine, but visibility was limited unless you went deeper. There, it was 80-plus feet. Lots of very playful
sea lions. Water temperature was 74 degrees; I was in a 5-mil and was fine. Turtles, octopus and all the other
usual critters. The Mexican people were just great and very hospitable. English is widely spoken. Night dives are
available. For dive trips, contact Desert Divers in Tucson, AZ, a five-hour drive away.” (www.desertdivers.com)
- - Ben Davison