Photography techniques continually evolve. Back
in the '60s, when I first started life as a photographer,
lighting for photography was directly developed
from lighting for movies, with huge spotlights
of 5000 watts and more. Flash was limited to
expendable flashbulbs, some as big as household
bulbs, which came at a cost. This was paralleled in
the underwater photography world, where pioneers
used big flashbulbs because the batteries needed to
fuel big constant light sources were impractical.
Then came the reliable electronic strobe, and
eventually, underwater electronic strobes became
reliable and small enough not to encumber a diver
carrying a big camera. Electronic strobes became
"de rigeur" for underwater still photography.
However, shooting video was different. You needed
constant light output.
As recently as 1992, I carried video rigs into the
water that weighed more than 150 pounds, thanks to the huge ni-cad batteries for the lights. They
often had to be derricked into the water. Even so,
the lights were not bright enough to light up a subject
more than 30 inches distant.
Today you can buy a 15,000 lumen LED light
that weighs less than two pounds,
including its battery. Underwater
strobes are tiny compared with their
light output. For video, obviously, you
need a constant light, but should you
now consider video lights for still pictures?
Electronic strobes, even in a small
package, can deliver a high output,
more even than that 15000 lumen
light, in an instant burst, freezing the
action. A set of four small batteries
will last for hundreds of exposures. However, you
need to know what you are doing. This comes with
practice, because you cannot see the effect before
you take the shot. The light pulse must synchronize
with the camera's shutter opening.
With modern digital cameras, that can be more
complex than you'd imagine. If you use the camera's
little on-board strobe to trigger the main
off-board strobe via a fiber-optic connection, you
need the off-board strobe to be able to tell the difference
between a pre-flash and the camera's main
flash. Some underwater strobes have a built-in aiming
light, too, but they're only good for telling you
where the strobe is pointed during a night dive.
To help a camera focus on macro subjects, it's
often a good idea to employ a separate aiming
light mounted on the camera. These can have
an auto-flash-off function so there is no annoying
spot of light added to your pictures. These aiming
lights can also have a red light mode so
marine life is not aware of your presence
until you ambush it with the pulse of
white light from your strobe.
With a video light, you can see its
effect before taking the picture, but it
will not give you a small working exposure
as a flash, and also provides less
depth-of-field (focus). It can also be difficult
to get close to a subject, because
the light might scare it. However, many
photographers are using video lights
for extreme macro photography because they can
move the light so close. Of course, you can use a
constant light source (video light) to shoot live
action as well as still images, and many underwater
photographers switch between the two during
a dive. A video light's controls are easy to understand,
as well. As for cost, by the by the time you've
mounted it on the camera, the cost will be around
the same as a strobe.
So which is best for your needs, a strobe light or
a video light? A new product combines both. The
newly developed range of lighting systems called
the iDivesite SS-1 Symbiosis and the doubly powerful
SS-2 Symbiosis each combine a 2000 lumen
video light with a strobe, powering both from the same rechargeable battery.
Either makes a viable alternative to two separate
items of equipment for those wishing to shoot
both still photographs and video on the same dive,
although the weight of the battery makes both slightly unwieldy. The designs are so new that I have
yet to hear confirmation of reliability. They are
expected to cost around $600 and $750, respectively.
- John Bantin