The Grand Turk of the Turks & Caicos Caribbean charm of yesterday From the June, 1998, issue of Undercurrent Riding down Grand Turk's empty Front Street on rickety bikes, my partner and I were returning to Guanahani Hotel from dinner at the Turks Head Inn. We had biked the previous night when the entire island went black for thirty minutes while the power company did a little maintenance. We had negotiated around potholes, stopped for two cars that passed, been redirected by friendly residents who saw us miss our turn, and made it back laughing. This night, however, a white van jerked to a stop alongside me. "You can't ride without lights," the burly driver yelled. "I'm a policeman. It's against the law. You're going to jail." This guy in street clothes frightened my partner. I explained we were visitors on bikes borrowed from the Guanahani. He gave no quarter: "You're going to spend the night behind bars," he shouted, then abruptly drove half a block ahead and slammed on his brakes. We hopped off our bikes, walking them ahead apprehensively. Then, just as abruptly, he stepped on the gas and disappeared. While I later learned that this bully was indeed a cop, he was the only unseemly character we encountered during our ten day April sojourn on Grand Turk and Salt Cay. This dork notwithstanding, it was an enjoyable trip. Grand Turk, some 550 miles southeast of Miami, is reachable in a single day from just about anywhere in the U.S. Grab the 5:10 p.m. AA flight from Miami to Providenciales, the main tourist destination, then connect to Grand Turk and hail a cab. A mile from Grand Turk's airport is the only tourist area, along a quiet, narrow, beachfront road with restored 19th century buildings, four small hotels, two dive operations, a small bar/restaurant, and one shop selling inexpensive Haitian art and souvenirs: not a T-shirt shop to be seen on this island of roughly 3000 residents. My partner and I arrived at the Guanahani Hotel, another mile north, at 8:30 p.m., after a slow $8/person cab ride from the airport. No one was in the office, but bartender Marvin offered a complimentary drink at their friendly bar, got us our room, and served up a good grouper dinner with frozen veggies and French fries. And we had a chat with our dive guide-to-be, Smitty of See Eye Diving, a muscular ex-policeman. In each of two two-story cinder-block buildings, the beachfront Guanahani sports eight identical rooms with balconies facing the sea; the upstairs rooms, particularly number 8, are preferable. I was initially put off by the aging Motel Six-style room, its sink counter in the dark bathroom ugly with salt-weathered metal and stains from the cosmetics of others. I would have preferred to sleep with the sliding door open to create a breeze, but it was unscreened, so every few minutes a mosquito buzzed me. I shut the door, turned on the aging air conditioner, and adapted. (The Sitting Pretty, owned by the same company, is a sister hotel in the tourist area. I spoke with an Undercurrent reader who moved out because her room smelled moldy and also met a woman who said she broke into tears when she saw her room; she and her husband moved out, forfeiting their prepayment. I visited two Sitting Pretty rooms and its tiny bar and outside dining area; I don't recommend it.) . . . . For the full story on the diving and our pick of the dive operators, see the June, 1998, issue. The seven-night advertised hotel prices: Arawak: $772-$886/person, the difference being location (phone 888-880-4477; 305-257-1080; fax 305-257-2072); Turks Head $478-758 (phone 649-946-2055; fax 946-2911); Guanahani $766 (649-725-2822; fax 946-1460); Island House, $750 (888-880-4477; 305-257-1080; fax 305-946 1523); Sitting Pretty $880 (forget it, but 649-946-2232, fax 946-2668). Add 18% tax and service charge to your bill. If you're uncertain about your hotel, avoid the package, rent on a daily basis, and only pay a deposit in case you want to switch. Next issue: Salt Cay, five miles away, similar diving, a fine dive operation, a range of accommodations, superior food ... a blast from the past. Diver's Compass. . . .You can fly directly to Grand Turk on Lynx Air's prop plane from Fort Lauderdale; Sky King is the preferred inter-island airline (call 1325112 12392; e-mail KING@CARIBSURF.COM) . . . .a couple of handy stores sell snacks, canned and frozen food, sundries, and film, but if you are cooking bring fresh veggies and meats. . . .there are plenty of websites for these places and the travel agents representing them . . . .cabs are easy to get, but the prices are fixed per person; that can lead to a whopping bill when six people want to travel to the Arawak; hook up with one cab driver for the week and negotiate a favorable price. . . .Forget Coral Reef Beach Resort (it's run-down and too far away) and the Water's Edge Club (handy but run-down) . . . .plans are afoot to build a nine-hole golf course and scores of homes and resorts. . . .a small U.S. military base, staffed during the Cold War, is a ghost town. . . . the dollar is the currency; I never once saw T&C money. 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