By the time you read this, I’ll
have returned from DEMA, held
this year in the mugging capital of
the world, New Orleans, where
locals in the know have fashioned
tee-shirts to explain the problem:
it’s not the heat, it’s the stupidity.
DEMA has been floundering
around over the last couple of
years and is once again in the
midst of electing board members,
a topic that may be worth writing
about after the show. But, if critics
are unhappy with DEMA’s job of
promoting our sport, perhaps
PADI’s new promo will attract the
intellectual crowd to scuba: turn a
friend onto diving and earn a
chance to appear on an episode of
Baywatch. Yes, it's true.
DEMA did finally end a fouryear-
long feud with ADEX, the
annual Asian Dive Expo. They
decided to work together instead
of staging competing shows in
Asia (Singapore in 1999 and
probably Thailand in 2000).
You may as well count on
reading about what’s new, different,
and weird at DEMA on these
pages, as who knows what other
dive rags will still be around next
month. Dive publications have
long been a transitory lot, first
appearing in droves, then disappearing,
reappearing, and merging
in an endless list of names and
formats from Underwater USA to
Fisheye View. That tradition continued
in ’98, when Florida-based
World Publications bought Dive
Travel and second-tier publications
Sport Diver and Dive Travel became one and same, beginning
with the September/October
1998 issue. On the next level up,
the huge British publisher Emap
PLC bought the recently-sold
Petersen Companies Inc., publishers
of Skin Diver, Motor Trend, Teen,
Sport, and other specialty mags,
for a cool $1.2 billion in cash.
In turn, Petersen stepped in
and swallowed Scuba Times, one of
the few dive pubs that has been
around for awhile, on the eve of
its 20th year of publication. Editor
Fred Garth told me he was sorry
to let it go, but they made him an
offer he couldn’t refuse, which
must have been what Ken Loyst
thought as well when he sold
Petersen Discover Diving a few
months earlier. Now we get to
watch Skin Diver and Rodale’s
Scuba Diving duke it out for the
heavyweight championship.
So we’ve lost publications, but
perhaps we’ve gained a new
Caribbean dive destination. Haiti
and the U.S are squabbling over
ownership of an obscure twosquare-
mile island off Haiti’s
western coast. An American
scientific team authorized by the
U. S. Department of the Interior
spent two weeks on tiny Navassa
this summer and came back with
reports of “extremely healthy
coral reefs with remarkable
animal life including several
endemic species.” It’s hard to
imagine a prolific reef just forty miles off the coast, especially if
you’ve had the opportunity to
view the decimated reefs around
Haiti, but if the Interior Department
says it’s there, I’m willing to
go. So how do we get there?
After El Niño? When Undercurrent reader Bill Meridith
returned from his Dec. ’97/Jan.
’98 Cocos trip, he wrote that it
was “a fair trip, but not a great
one. I only saw hammers once,
when I saw two together at Dos
Amigos Pequeña. I saw silkies
twice and no silvertips. Even the
whitetips were fewer in number
and less active. Only saw one
mobula ray, a few marble rays, and
no Pacific mantas and no sailfish.
Water temperatures were around
85 - too warm.” It was El Niño.
But Bill, who just came back
from a return trip to Cocos, now
writes “what a difference a year
(and La Niña) makes! . . . on our
first dive of the trip, which was on
the south end of Manuelita, I saw
several hammers as soon as we got
in the water.
“Thank you La Niña! The
highlight of my trip was when a
blue marlin came to within five
feet of me underwater and stared
at me. The hammerheads were
out in large schools (many
hundreds) as were the countless
other sharks, along with the other
usual suspects — Pacific mantas
(but not mobulas), many, many
marble rays, lots of eagle rays,
yellow fin tuna, schools of skipjack
tuna, huge schools of jacks, wahoo
on almost every dive, and on and
on. I saw almost everything there
is to see at Cocos except a whale
shark.”
I can tell you where the whale
sharks were: they were over at
Wolf and Darwin in the
Galapagos, where one of our
travel correspondents saw 14 of
the beasts in the water during this
same December/January time
period. We’ll tell you more next
month, but El Niño is over and La
Niña is here.
After Hurricane El Mitcho —
Given how powerful Mitch was,
damage reports from resort
owners in Honduras have been
very positive, with most resorts
claiming little damage to their
facilities or to the reefs. Subscriber
Mike Tell (Grapevine TX)
reports from his visit to CoCo
View just two weeks after the big
blow: “CoCo View was virtually
unscathed by the hurricane —
minor damage to reefs — seafans
destroyed at some locations and
no seahorses were to be found.
Visibility was a little below normal
(50' to 80'). Tegucigalpa Airport
operations were normal with little
evidence of how bad conditions
were on the mainland.”
B
ecky Kennedy (Athens TN),
who was also at CoCo View in
November, was apprehensive
about going so soon after the
storm, but writes that “much to
our delight the resort was in great
shape. They had lost a couple of
feet of sand in front of the clubhouse
and their gazebo at the end
of the pier. The diving was a mixed
experience with some low visibility,
but the coral was in good shape,
but with some recent bleaching.”
Honduras is having a hard
time convincing divers that they
were not blown away, and incredible
bargains are being offered in
order to attract divers back.
The wind has not been
blowing high on St. Vincent, but
evidently the smoke has. St.
Vincent’s new Marijuana Farmers
movement, which claims to have
800 members, sent a letter of
protest to President Clinton
demanding compensation for lost
marijuana plants. It seems that
the U.S. sends help down for the
fall harvest and destroys the
farmers’ cash crops. Similar
operations in recent years destroyed
millions of plants in
Trinidad, St. Kitts, St. Lucia,
Dominica, and Antigua. But with an
estimated 12,350 acres in production,
St. Vincent is the eastern
Caribbean’s largest marijuana
producer. I’m not telling you this so
you’ll know where to score but
rather to warn divers who are also
serious hikers not to get off the
beaten path much in these areas, as
crop-protection efforts there
included such tactics as placing
booby traps and the like.
Peter Hughes is moving some
boats around this year. He’s
picked up the Antares down in Los
Roques, an area whose diving
impressed Ben Davison during his
December 1994 trip. If anyone
beats us down there to see how
Peter’s running the show, let me
know. His Wind Dancer pulled out
of the Bay Islands, departing even
before Mitch paid the area a visit.
It’s moved instead to Grand Turk,
where the overall quality of the
diving merits the choice of a liveaboard.
(The Sea Dancer will
continue to operate out of Provo.)
The Egyptian Moon Dancer, which
dives the Red Sea, will no longer be
a part of Peter Hughes Diving but is
supposed to continue operation
under the name of M/V Oyster.
I’ve also got a few hot leads
on some new dive travel that I’ll
be checking out, and I’ll let you
know about them next month.
— John Q. Trigger