When we get good tips from
readers that check out, we offer
periodic updates so you don't have
to wait until the end of the year to
get it from the Chapbook. Last
month we offered several, and here
are a few more to give you an
update on unique dive destinations
to consider.
Fiji: There's a new resort in Fiji,
says Rosemary Gutwillig (Greenport,
NY): Tiliva Resort on Kadavu
Island. In April, she landed "on a
gravel strip and embarked in an
open 27-foot skiff for an hour-long,
scenic but bumpy ride to the
resort. Guests are housed in beautifully
appointed wooden cottages
modeled after Fijian bures. The
tiled bathrooms have up-to-date fixtures
and plenty of hot water.
There is no air conditioning, but
the ceiling fan worked well. The
cook makes marvelous original
combinations of local and Western
cuisine; the fish dishes were especially
good. You could become an
addict of their coconut sauces.
Steak, chicken, and pork chops
were served other evenings. The
dive operation is run by a Fijian
divemaster; the boat is the same
outboard that met us at the airport.
There is new Apollo gear (regs,
BCs, fins) -- no rental fees are
charged. The Astrolabe Reef is a
beautiful perpendicular wall, broken
into canyons, caverns, pinnacles,
overhangs, and swim-throughs
that are fun to explore and dramatically
eerie at night. There are gorgeous
soft corals, sea fans, whips,
and enormous plates of hard coral.
There are countless species of pairing
and single butterflies, half a
dozen different bannerfish, and
varieties of angels, puffers, triggers,
surgeons, groupers, glasseyes, and
tangs. Schools of copper sweepers,
pyramid butterflies, scissortail
sergeants, and bannerfish, and
groups of steelhead parrots and
harlequin sweetlips. Clark, skunk,
and tomato anemone fish. Banded
sea snakes. Ringed pipefish.
Thorny oysters. Brilliant painted
crayfish. A turtle and a few
whitetips. And a 4-inch Fijian octopus
to hold in the palm of your
hand." (www.TilivaResortFiji.com,
+679-331-5127)
The Bahamas: Easy Goin', says
Robyn Churchill (Hollywood, FL),
is a first-rate dive live-aboard. "The three-member crew is beyond wonderful.
You never feel smothered
by needless rules and restrictions
on your diving. The 62-foot vessel is
spotlessly clean and comfortable.
Trips are limited to six or seven
guests, with personalized attention for each guest. Besides spectacular
diving, there are other activities
such as fishing, snorkeling, and
kayaking with their onboard ocean
kayak. They do weekend trips to
Bimini and weeklong trips to the
west end of Grand Bahamas. There
are upper and lower berths in each
cabin, with a storage room. Two of
the three guest cabins have full-size
lower berths for couples. The boat
has satellite TV, VCR, and stereo.
There's also a sun deck with
lounge chairs. First mate Peg serves
three delicious meals each day, with
great appetizers before dinner and
snacks between each dive. On past
trips we've been treated to grilled
steak, lobster, swordfish, shrimp
Creole, homemade conch fritters,
and fresh-baked breads and
desserts. There's also complimentary
beer, wine, and Captain's rum
punch after the last dive of the day. In March, there was a great abundance
of tropicals and lots of colorful
soft corals. Turtles and rays are
numerous in Bimini, and on one
dive we saw four nurse sharks, six
reef sharks, and several large
grouper. Wall diving, wreck diving, and night diving are all included
-- the Sapona wreck is not to be
missed! We did a night dive there
and saw several huge lobsters, a
variety of crabs, turtles, rays, and
several parrot fish encased in their
nighttime "cocoons." We also came
across a small school of approachable
squid, and their iridescent
blue color set against the nighttime
blackness of the water was unbelievable!"
Paul Osmond (Weston, FL),
on board in March, adds: "If you book the boat, they will take you
where you want and make this the
best live-aboard experience of your
life. I have been on many liveaboards,
and this surpassed all of
them. Best of all, you leave out of
Ft. Lauderdale! (954-524-8717,
www.ParadiseCharters.com)
"We stayed down as long as we wanted -- my average
dive time was 69 minutes, about a 38 percent increase
over the 45 to 50 minutes the Brac dive boats allow." |
Cayman Brac: Reis Kayser
(Glen Ellyn, IL) put together an
unusual trip for Cayman Brac. Says
Kayser: "We had a wonderfully appointed two bedroom and two
bath condo with a fully equipped
kitchen, living room, balcony, and
all the amenities, for about
$1,000/week. It was on the far end
of the island, away from the airport,
so we never heard anything but the
waves crashing outside. Shelby Scott
owns a 23-foot twin outboard fishing
boat that he runs fishing charters
on and occasionally takes
divers. He has lived on Brac his
whole life. The four of us chartered his boat for six days of three daily
dives, tanks, and weights. He
required us to dive with a local divemaster
-- Bunny Watson -- on the
first day so that he could be comfortable
that we knew what we were
doing. Bunny grew up on the
island and has been a divemaster
for many years. Bunny, who was a
lot of fun, showed us an amazing
number of critters that we would
have missed. It was so enjoyable diving
with Bunny that we hired him
for the remainder of the week. We
stayed down as long as we wanted
and my Cochran told me my average
dive time was 69 minutes, about
a 38% increase over the 45 to 50
minutes the Brac dive boats allow.
We made two trips to Little
Cayman, though divers at the
hotels told us that the resort boats
were unable to visit the Little
Cayman 'rough seas.' The divers
seemed to feel it was due to high
fuel prices. It is possible that while
the water was dead calm where we
launched, the other side of the
island where the marina and the
resort boats dock was rough all week." For accommodations, Nina
Banks (rbanks@candw.ky; 345-948-
1463); for shore diving guide,
Bunny Watson (cybbline@candw.ky;
345-948-0254); or boat diving,
Shelby Scott (345-917-7074). Shelby
is not into computers yet! All told,
we paid $2,500 for Shelby's boat for
the week, $100/day for Bunny, and
$1,000 for Cayman Breakers, a sixteen-
unit condo complex with central
air, satellite TV with VCR, washer
and dryer, and picnic tables,
hammocks, BBQ grills, and a rinse
tank. (Robert and Nina Banks,
www.CaymanCondosOnline.com,
345-948-1463)
Sea of Cortez: Rich Goldman
(NYC) says The New Beginning is a
"wonderful, small 60-foot Lien
Hwa Motor Yacht with an 18-foot
beam. It takes only six passengers
and visits the spectacular lower Sea
of Cortez out of La Paz. The
rooms are small and the back deck
(for both relaxing and gearing up)
is not roomy, but the boat is by no
means cramped and certainly not
uncomfortable. Showers are shared, but the water is hot, and
with so few people aboard there is
hardly any overlap. There is a sun
deck upstairs, and there is plenty
of room at the bow -- where I
spent most days scanning the sea
surface for marine life. While the
boat is advertised as fully air-conditioned,
the AC was only run in the
rooms at night and is hardly cold.
Small, individual room fans help a
bit. The back deck dive table or
salon coffee table serves as the
camera check/maintenance area;
there are plenty of American-style
outlets for battery recharging. The
boat is run by Nancy Tomlinson,
captain and dive guide, and her
husband, Darrell (dive guide and
everything else). A friendly local
helped with the cleaning, cooking,
etc. They are an engaging, professional
couple who know the dive
sites well and tailor the itinerary to
the guests' desires. We did three or
four dives a day, which included a
few excellent night dives. While
Nancy's food was not copious, it
was tasty and sufficient but could
be improved to make the New
Beginning an exceptional dive boat,
which it is in other ways. The size
allows for easily arranged private
charters, an intimate topside experience,
and a no-crowd underwater
situation. The dives include La
Reina, where close-up encounters
with giant Pacific manta rays are
almost guaranteed this time of
year; El Bajo, where we saw medium-
sized hammerhead schools on
two of three dives; Las Islotes and
Sea Lion Rock, home to frolicking
sea lions and pups; and Las
Animas, teeming with fish life and
a host of pelagics. While this area
has been discovered by the
Japanese, it is still relatively
undived. It is one of the best dive
areas I've experienced and is
world-class diving. Nancy and
Darrell once dropped us off in the
middle of the sea, picked up a
school of dolphins at their bow,
and ran the boat by us so we could
photograph the dolphins from
underwater. They would drop us off and pick us up in their Zodiac
when the New Beginning couldn't
anchor close enough to a given
site. I have dived this part of the
Sea of Cortez many times, from
live-aboard and from shore, and
the New Beginning is by far the best
way! (RamaJamaAdventures.com,
760-346-3685)
Puerto Morelos, Yucatan:
About a half hour south of
Cancun is a pleasant little village
that has so far been bypassed by
the development of Cancun and
South. I visited there a year ago
and loved it. While the diving doesn't
have the walls of Cozumel, it is
superior to Cancun, for sure.
Patrick Gilley Sr. (Belvedere, IL)
found Mystic Diving and their 33-
foot canvas-covered boat in
November. "Twin 115-hp outboards.
Excellent condition. $45
tank dive. DAN First Aid kit and
oxygen on board. Ship to shore
radio. Victor Reyes' wife, Mary Lu,
was personable. Corals and
sponges outstanding. Saw the
biggest green moray ever in a cave!
Large lobsters, eagle ray, 5-foot
nurse. Little to no diving in area so everything is pristine. Not broken
up like Cancun." And John
Thurston (Golden, CO) found
Diveair, Ojo de Agua, this past
March. "Pat Beach, a Canadian
woman and PADI Instructor, runs
the dive operation from her house
near the hotel Ojo de Agua. Her
boat leaves from the beach in front
of the hotel. She takes up to six
divers, but will go with only one
diver. The boat is an open, small
boat with an awning. Dives are usually
done with an interval on the
boat. Pat is a conservative dive leader
and will not go out when the
winds are strong. I lost several days
of diving due to strong winds. The
dives are to a sunken warship that
has been opened for diving and to
various coral areas. I saw a lot of
small fish. The coral and sponges
are not as good as the best of
Cozumel, but the diving is a lot less
crowded. Snorkeling is available for
coral and fish a short distance from
the hotel. The town is quiet and
has several good restaurants. The
hotel is air conditioned and comfortable."
(www.MysticDiving.com,
52-998-871-0634)
Australia: One of Australia's
more posh resorts and a favorite
spot for honeymooners is Lizard
Island on the Barrier Reef. Wayne
Leonard (San Francisco, CA) visited
in October. "We were dropped
off at Lizard Island at the end of a
three and a half day live-aboard trip
last October. Amazing island. The
resort only has 40 rooms. Very
exclusive feeling and relaxing.
Pricey, but worth it. The resort has
dinghies that guests can take to
secluded beaches and close outlying
islands. Amazing to pull up on
a beach/island and be the only
ones there. A few good hikes are
available. The diving is fairly average
(for the Great Barrier Reef),
though it is close to Cod Hole so
there are opportunities for giant
potato cod encounters. Though I
was the only one who requested a
night dive, the resort took me out. I
had a private guide all to myself.
When I commented to the manager
about the service, his response
was 'Well that's what we do here on
Lizard Island.' All-inclusive prices
began at US $431/person, plus diving.
(www.lizardisland.com.au)
- Ben Davison