A key element in terrorism is
shock value. That's why the
October nightclub bombing in Bali
was so unnerving. Although we're
now hearing that the CIA had been
warning about an attack there for
some time, as a primarily Hindu
enclave, Bali has been far removed
from trouble spots such as Jakarta
and East Timor. One fanatical act
changed all that in an instant.
Undercurrent's webmaster, Dave
Eagleray, has been living in the
Bali town of Ubud for two years
and says as far as he's concerned
"this place is still far safer than just
about any place in the U.S." As
one might expect, people in the
dive travel industry echo the sentiment.
Jenny Collister of Reef &
Rainforest Travel says she is booking
Indonesia dive trips "like mad."
Her September 2003 departure
has been sold out for a year, with a
substantial wait list. "People are
scrambling for spots on a 2004 trip to the Banda Sea," she adds.
While Collister won't bother recommending
destinations tagged
unsafe to those who haven't been
there, most of her well-traveled,
well-educated clients know where
they want to go and are not looking
for advice. "Chances are
they've been talking to others who
have visited these destinations
recently" and have made up their
own minds about whether to go.
As Ken Knezick, president of
Island Dreams Tours & Travel,
puts it: "The adventurous scuba
traveler is knowledgeable and willing
to accept a level of risk."
Indonesia Security
For Peter Hughes Diving,
which operates the Komodo Dancer,
it's business as usual. Sales and
Marketing Vice President Sue
Hamilton told Undercurrent that
right after the bombing, they
allowed Dancer passengers to rebook on later departures or on
other Peter Hughes vessels. That's
a policy she says they follow any
time a State Department security
advisory is issued on a destination
Peter Hughes serves. Guido
Brink, a partner in the Hughes'
Bali-based Komodo Dancer, says they
now escort passengers between the
airport, hotel, and the vessel. The
crew has been instructed to let no
strangers on board, either at the
dock or at sea. "No more
nonessential people on the docks.
Tighter security at all gates. Patrol
boats are manned by police and
park rangers in the Komodo
National Park who execute routine
checks on any boat coming
into the park."
American-owned Kungkungan
Bay Resort on Lembeh Strait in
Northern Sulawesi has beefed up
security. Undercurrent subscriber
Larry Murphy of Atlanta, Ga., traveled
to KBR from Bali just after the bombing and reports that the resort
"had already hired private security to
patrol the grounds 24 hours a day.
Soon a detachment of Indonesian
Water Police (unarmed) were stationed
on the premises, and finally
another detachment of armed military,
one of whom was present on the
dive boat with a rifle in the ready. We
felt secure." Murphy added that he'd
noticed military protection at resorts
on Sipadan, Mabul, and Lankayan, as
well.
And while reader Charles
Stearns felt safe there in July, he
quoted friends diving with Roger
Steene in December who said: "If
we're so safe, why the AK47's?"
Stearns says KBR is his all-time
favorite destination, but his first rule
is not to become a CNN persona as a
hostage or victim.
Travel writer Ed Perkins said in a
recent column: "I see no end to terrorist
threats against Americans,
wherever they are; a war on Iraq
would almost certainly increase the
threat. Keep in mind that we always
react to the last attack rather than
anticipate the next one. Improved
aviation security? Look for attacks
elsewhere."
Attacks by members of the terrorist
Abu Sayyaf Group based in the
southern Philippines are still a concern
to the State Department. ASG,
linked to Al Quaida, was responsible
for the armed kidnappings of dive
tourists from Sipadan in 2000. In
November, Philippine communist
rebels killed four soldiers and
torched a mobile phone relay station
at Puerto Galera, a resort close to the
Manila that is one of the country's
best-known scuba diving spots.
After we reviewed Philippine diving
in September, Undercurrent reader
Geofrey Engel, M.D., wrote to say
we should have written more about
the dangers of traveling there.
Filipino friends in the medical profession
tell him it's quite dangerous for an American to travel in the
Philippines. A November 3, 2002,
State Department announcement
states "the terrorist threat to
Americans in the Philippines
remains high. I think that we must
view travel to some exotic destinations
with skepticism."
Could liveaboards
be a target?
As if terrorism isn't enough to
worry about, piracy is rampant in
Indonesia and in the Malacca Strait,
the shortest trade route from the
Indian Ocean to the South China
Sea, which runs through the territorial
waters of Indonesia, Malaysia,
and Thailand. The International
Maritime Bureau recorded 469
attacks on ships last year, an almost
five-fold increase since 1990. So far,
pirates seem to have targeted cargo
vessels, which when stripped of their
booty can be resold or reused to capture
other ships. Could liveaboards,
with 16 or so potential American
hostages, be a target?
Brett Gilliam, publisher of Fathoms magazine, notes that most
liveaboards post 24-hour watches
and operate far beyond piracy areas,
generally in lightly inhabited areas
where strange vessels are easily spotted.
But that hardly seems sufficient
defense against speedboat-equipped
kidnappers with automatic weapons,
such as the thugs who invaded
Sipadan.
There are other hotspots. For
instance, Gilliam has no desire to
return to the Red Sea. "The quality
of diving no longer measures up to
the risk," he says. The Solomon
Islands are still going through their
own upheavals, although tourists
have not been targets, nor have
remote dive locations. On
December 20, 2002, the State
Department declared, "Americans
planning to visit the Solomon Islands
should contact the U.S. Consular Agent in Honiara or the U.S.
Embassy in Port Moresby, Papua
New Guinea, for updates on the
security situation."
Most travel experts agree that
the chance of being mugged,
robbed, or sexually assaulted in some
Third World areas far outweighs the
dangers of terrorism, so in unfamiliar
urban areas exercise the same
caution in Honiara or Port Moresby
as you would in Philadelphia.
Persons with limited experience who
plan to travel extensively in developing
nations should arrange for a
knowledgeable citizen or expatriate
companion whenever possible.
If you book a trip and then find
that the political situation has worsened,
try to negotiate a change in
itinerary with your carrier and dive
operator. Jenny Collister notes that
Cathay Pacific waived cancellation
charges after the Bali bombing.
Failing that, you may get some relief
from travel insurance, but be warned
that many carriers have changed
their coverage since 9/11. Each policy
is different, so check the fine
print. While you're at it, check your
medical insurance as well. The State
Department points out that U.S.
medical insurance is not always valid
outside the U.S., particularly
Medicare and Medicaid.
It's not Undercurrent's place to
steer people away from any given
dive destination. But before you venture
into a strange land, be as well
informed as possible. If you're concerned,
stick to safer destinations,
and thankfully there are still plenty
to choose from. Ken Knezick recalls
that during the travel slowdown after
the Gulf War, Mexico, the Caribbean,
and Central and South America
became more popular destinations.
You can find updated U.S. State
Department travel warnings at
travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html.