Our Truk Lagoon writer took 10 days to compare
land-based (Blue Lagoon, featured in last month's
issue) and shore-based diving on the Truk Odyssey to
see if there was a clear winner. Now that you have
read both stories, which would you do if you go to
Chuuk? Stay on land or on a liveaboard? Because a lot
of the time, it really boils down to that: a diver's personal
preference for where to hang up his or her fins
at the end of the day.
I regularly extoll the virtues of diving by liveaboard,
where you spend a week or more with a
close-knit group of like-minded scuba fanatics, doing
nothing but diving, eating and sleeping. What could
be better? Except for when you learn more about some
shipmates and realize you can't get along with them,
but there's nothing you can do about it in the confines
of what now seems like a too-small boat, besides bailing
ship. As our travel writer found out, the chances
of spending your dive trip with a "Metamucil boy"
are not that slim.
I love how a liveaboard gets me closer to remoter
dive sites. I hate how my non-diving friends ask if the
vessel can go into a little harbor for dinner at a local
restaurant. The thought of not seeing land for the
duration of a trip is bliss for me but is often returned
with a stare of incredulity by them.
A liveaboard takes a lot of the slog out of the diving
experience -- little to no hauling or setting up of
tanks, which literally takes a load off my back. Stan
Waterman, that grand old man of diving, always said, "When you get to my age -- liveaboard." On the other hand, you might suffer from the dreaded mal de mer --
and the only cure for seasickness is to sit under a tree.
So there's one merit of shore-based diving.
Here's another: While it's true that when staying
on a tiny island, you see the same people every day,
the tiniest island is still bigger than any dive boat.
There are few places in the world where shore diving
is still a viable possibility, so you'll usually have to
endure something on the order of an hour each way
by boat -- sometimes a small one with less-than-comfy
seating and no shade -- to get to the majority of dive
sites. But at least, you can come ashore, stretch your
legs and choose to eat somewhere different each night
or even not go diving at all some days.
Traveling with a non-diving spouse can mean landbased
diving is a more viable option, and if there is
local culture to consider, why not? If you're visiting
Fiji or Papua New Guinea, for example, it would be
criminal not to experience things other than the diving.
If you're on Cozumel, it would be a shame not to
visit the Yucatan mainland, or to even dive in a cenote
or two.
It's different strokes for different folks. Sometimes,
it's the destination that decides it for you. But give
each option a try. Ultimately, for a diver, it's what
lives underneath the waters lapping at the liveaboard
or the resort's shores that matters most.
-- John Bantin