Thanks to our attentive readers,
we get important updates
throughout the year and here are
several we wish to share. And,
keep in mind that the deadline
for submissions to the Chapbook
is September 23, give or take.
Please use the enclosed form to
file your report, or better yet, file
online at Undercurrent (or e-mail: bendavison@aol.com).
Now, here are a few positive
updates, and some serious warnings,
so that you don’t waste your
hard-earned money on places
that will disappoint you.
Room Rats at Bayman Bay: We have warned our readers
about the Bayman Bay Club in
Honduras, but unfortunately one of
our subscribers, Karen Fiedler (La
Canada, CA), missed our warning. “I
wish we had read our Chapbook
before going in June! There were
several stories similar to the one I’m
going to tell. Our first night we had
rats in our room and no electricity.
There we sat at 2:00 a.m. armed with
only our dive lights. We finally demanded they put the generator
on so we could have the lights on
to keep the rats at bay. We
changed rooms the next day, but
there was a trade-off: no hot water
for no rats! The beds were made,
but no sweeping the floors or
cleaning the bathroom. But the
cleaning girls were more than
happy to eat your food and steal
your make-up while making your
bed. The trash cans in the bathrooms
in the dining area had tissue
with human feces, though the
girls had just ‘cleaned.’ The staff
was incredibly lazy! The pseudomanager,
Jordana, was the
unfriendliest person I’ve ever met.
The breakfast dishes would be left
on the table for hours while the
staff played pool. One night, the
dinner dishes were left out and a
storm came up; in the a.m., there
was broken glass and food all over
the floor. There were mangos rotting
on the ground, but mangos
were never served unless we
picked them up and asked for a
knife. Which we did, because
there was no food available
between meals. Only on the last
two days were we given fresh fruit.
We were served one plate of food
at meals and that was it. Most of
the time, there were no cokes or
beers because the staff or locals
drank them all or there was no
money to buy any. We gave them
$60 to buy diesel for the generator
and a bag of ice. We’re still waiting
to be reimbursed. We were told
the owners don’t wire money
when there are only a few guests.”
Divi Cleans Up Its Act: On
Cayman Brac, Divi Tiara seems to
have finally finished its upgrading,
says Richard Parry (Westfield, NJ).
“The hotel has been completely
refurbished and the guest rooms,
dining room, and lobby are in
excellent condition. The timeshare
units could use refurbishing.
Dinner always included excellent
choices lobster tail and steak, roast
pork with applesauce and mashed
potatoes, prime rib with corn, and
sweet potatoes.” Divi Tiara has
always had a first-class dive operation,
but Divi’s bankruptcy a
decade ago led to Mother Nature
taking over the maintenance. It’s
good to know that the premises
have at last been brought into the
twenty-first century. www.divi.com. phone: (919) 419-3484, (800)
367-3484
“We were served
one plate of food
at meals and that
was it. . . .there were
no cokes or beers
because the staff
or locals drank
them all.” |
Too Loose on St. Lucia: Dive
Fair Helen is a relatively new
operation, but when Helene and
Al Dummer (Hartsdale, NY) tried
it in April, they were not happy.
“Diving restrictions were sixty feet
for forty-five minutes. Perhaps the
divemaster who jumped in without
turning on her tank or the
divemaster who ran out of air
should have clued us in on days
one and two, but we were prepaid.
The boat was in excellent
condition, but the operation was
total chaos. On day four, a combination
of snorklers, resort divers,
open water certification divers,
and experienced divers were
loaded on one boat (though the
operator had two boats). Each
group was dropped at a different
location, with the experienced
divers last. We began a drift dive,
but Al ran low on air after thirty
minutes. We told the divemaster
we were going up and she okayed
this. When we reached the surface,
the boat was nowhere in
sight (it had left to get the other
groups). Although our lives were
hardly in danger (the shore was
five hundred feet away), it
seemed very irresponsible if there
had been an emergency, we
would have been skunked!
Steerage Class Down Under: Many Americans who expect the
best of the Great Barrier Reef
when they visit Cairns, Australia,
come home disappointed, as
these two Undercurrent subscribers
report. “Cairns Reef Dive,” say
Sandra and Mark Lucas (Goshen,
KY), “was the most disorganized
dive operation we have encountered.
We were dismayed at the
instructors for not following
proper dive procedures, especially
with students. There was never
a thorough pre-dive briefing. We
had to haul our gear for each
dive from the second deck to the
dive deck down narrow, steep
stairs. Not once did anyone offer
to assist. The accommodations
were bare minimum. The rooms
were small with bunk beds covered
in tattered linen. A communal
shower and bathroom served
at least sixteen people. We had to
provide our own towels. Entry
and exit from the water was a
free-for-all, with as many as twenty
divers gearing up to get into the
water. Had we known it was the
Easter Holiday, we would have
booked the trip sooner with a
more reputable dive operation.”
Don Beukers (San Jose, CA)
started booking his July trip to
the GBR in February, but learned
it was “much too late to book
Spoilsport or another first class
boat. By e-mail, I booked a fourday,
three-night trip to Cod Hole
on the Taka II. The crew was wonderful
but the boat was sub-par;
two upper deck rooms had
ensuite toilets/showers, but the
other people had to share combination
toilet/showers on the dive
deck with the crew. The average
age was about thirty and a lot
were travelers backpacking
around the world. No charging stations or dedicated photo table.
The food was buffet, however,
there were only three booths, so
there was not enough seating.
The GBR is an overblown destination.
I went to the GBR on a Quicksilver boat earlier and those
dives were mediocre. The Cod
Hole dive was okay. Fiji blows
away the GBR.”
Long Beach to Catalina, Two
Dives, and Back by Lunch: Looking for a day boat in Los
Angeles? “Express Divers’ Island
Time is it,” say William and
Frances Ungerman (Santa Ana,
CA), who joined them in Long
Beach for trips to Catalina Island,
twenty-six miles across the sea.
“They advertise ‘resort-style diving’
and that’s what you get.
Departures at 8 a.m. and 1:30
p.m. Seventy-five minute run to
Santa Catalina. They are
extremely accommodating and
helpful, with no big hand out for
tips. It was never mentioned.
Skipper ‘Chris’ is a former Navy
SEAL. D/M Darren was watchful,
but no hand-holder. Aluminum
80 tanks are furnished, but bring
your own weights. Boat is a fast
Pro 48 twenty-two knots. $78 for
a two-tank dive. You only spend a
half day on the boat, leaving the
balance free.
www.expressdivers.com or call
(866) 488-3483.
Fiji Downtime: The bizarre
airline schedule to Fiji has you
arriving from the U.S. at sunrise
and departing around midnight.
It means downtime somewhere.
Bradley Bowen (Farmingon, UT)
has discovered a way to handle it.
“We chartered a boat to take us
on a two-tank dive immediately
upon our arrival at 5:30 a.m,
since the Fiji Aggressor does not
board until 1:30 p.m. We were in
a cab on our way to the Sheraton
Denaru by 6:45 to dive with their
operation. Our first dive was at
Malolo Pinnacle, twelve miles
out. Great dive at two pinnacles
rising from a sandy bottom in
eighty feet of water. Dozens of
anemone fish were on top of the
pinnacle, including tomato
clown fish and Clark’s anemone
fish. Lots of jacks, trevalley, giant
trevalley, and clouds of anthias. A
great tunnel ran under the second
pinnacle; plenty of soft
corals. The second dive was at
Mystery Reef, halfway back.
Fabulous swim-throughs (but not
many fish) and sea cucumbers
that spewed long sticky threads
when stressed. Call the Sheraton,
but book directly through the
dive shop manager, and ask for
special arrangements.
Unique Maui Shorediving: If
you don’t want to rise at the
crack of dawn for Maui dive
boats, there’s an excellent shore
diving option with Octopus Reef,
say David and Susan Wisdom
(Portland, OR). “In April we
dived three days with Octopus
Reef. Rene took us off both the
northwest and southwest coast of
Maui. Her enthusiasm is infectious.
She is very knowledgeable
about the fish life. The briefings
made it seem as though we were
diving with a marine biologist.
She was generous with her time
long, shallow dives. Though
there were no large critters, I’ve
never seen so many different
types of wrasses. We saw numerous
turtles (my wife was elated!),
several free swimming octopi,
and many different eels. The
highlight was seeing up close and
personal a juvenile manta in
twelve feet of water.”
info@octopusreef.com or call
(808) 875-0183.
Magnificent Majuro? J. D.
Webster, M.D. (St. Clair, MI) says,
“Diving in the Marshalls is exceptional
and Bako Divers made each
of my three trips to Majuro a success!
Jerry Ross, owner/operator,
and his staff go out of their way to
help you not only diving but getting
around town. The Paula Jean is fast
a twenty-five-foot Glass-Pro with twin
ninety-horsepower Honda outboards
— and it handles rough seas
well. Jerry is a large man 6’2” and
280 pounds but he swims gracefully
and always watches out for your
safety. He’s one of the best, and I’ve
seen them all while logging over
5,500 dives since 1953. The boat
ties up at the Outrigger Hotel dock
each morning, fifty feet from the
dive shop, and only twenty feet
from the restaurant. They kept my
gear overnight and had my first rig
set up when I arrived each day. The
sites range from ‘steep and deep’
walls to lovely coral gardens that are
dense and healthy. Over 350 varieties
of hard and soft corals can be
found in the Marshalls, along with
1,200+ species of fish and invertebrates.
I saw all the ‘tropicals’
including multicolored angel fish,
decorated dartfish, butterflies, huge
populations of pelagics including
enormous dogtooth tuna, barracuda,
sharks (white-tip, gray reef,
nurse, silver-tip, black-tip), dolphins,
eagle rays, green-sea and hawksbill
turtles, and more. At the deepwater
pass in Majuro Lagoon during
an incoming tide, we watched
what appeared to be 10,000 big eye
jacks feeding on the rich incoming
tidal flow. Scores of gray sharks
cruised within the school. Most
dives were drift dives in mild currents
at both Majuro and Arno
Atoll, a ten-mile boat ride to the
east. The water was eighty-four
degrees and clear, and visibility lingered
at eighty feet or more even feaon
bad days. There is a WWII
Grumman F6F Hellcat fighter
plane at 115 feet, just 500 meters
from the dock at Bako Divers,
and a rare Grumman ‘Duck’
float plane three miles down the
lagoon; inside the lagoon is an
‘Avenger’ fighter at 110 feet.
There we found a dozen lionfish,
four species of anemone, three
species of anemone fish, nudibranchs,
octopus, and thousands
of tropicals dancing over hard
coral pillars. You are allowed to
dive with your computer. Majuro
is basically undiscovered and not
crowded. The Outrigger
Marshall Islands Resort has very
complete rooms (cable TV,
refrigerator, A/C, etc.) The
‘Enra’ restaurant offers great
food and drink. The local people
are extremely friendly, helpful
and always smiling.” Phone from
the U.S. Jerry Ross, 011-(692)-
625-2525 Ext. 140; fax from the
U.S. 011-(692)-625-2500; e-mail
jerryr@ntamar.com.
“On a shore dive we saw turtles, several free
swimming octopi, and the highlight was
a juvenile manta in twelve feet of water.” |
Micronesia, Maybe: These
islands are getting more play, perhaps
because American territories
are presumably safe these
days.Ulithi is a side trip from
Palau, which long-time
Undercurrent correspondent Bill
Knoblach visited last winter.
“Ulithi was interesting. The diving
was okay, but the dive manager,
Gregg from Water Sports
Adventures in Kauai, treated us
like beginning divers and herded
us together. The first dive was
sixty feet for forty-five minutes.
That didn’t go over well with this
group that included master scuba
divers, PADI course directors,
and several master dive instructors.
We dove off two boats, and
instead of having each boat away
from the other, they made us all
dive together. When photographers
separated, Gregg aborted
the dive and chewed us out on
the surface, yelling at us about
staying together. He even threatened
to take away our diving for
the rest of the trip. Several of us
finally calmed him down somewhat,
and we continued diving.
The USS Mississemewa is the only
known U.S. ship that was sunk by a
Japanese Suicide Sub. It was found
only last year, so it was a thrill diving
it (120 feet). The dive boats are
open, approximately twenty-five feet
long, powered by two forty-hp outboards.
There was no place to sit
and no cover from the sun. The
local dive guides were great. The
resort is fine, with ten rooms, all with
air conditioning. They shut off the
water at night. Food was adequate.
One person on our trip had booked
a future week, but canceled it
because he knew his divers would
hate the dive operation.” Another
reader, Nikki Mahan (Bellevue, WA)
found the diving pristine, and noted
that the “operation is very new but
everyone is eager to learn. We pointed
many critters out to the divemasters,
and they were very excited to
see them. We saw many cuttlefish
interacting with each other. Several
fish we couldn’t even find in the
books. The USS Mississemewa had us
all feeling like we had the ghosts of
those thirty-five men trailing us.
Outstanding diving. Worth the helacious
trip to get there.”