From time to time, we select salient reports from
readers to suggest great dive destinations for your
consideration, as well as places not to go or things
for which to watch out.
For this issue, we have in hand a full travel
review about diving in the Dominican Republic, but
given the mysterious deaths of tourists there recently
(there is speculation that drinks from the minibar
were the cause of some deaths), I don't think it would be useful to devote four pages to Dominican
Republic diving, especially since it's not on the radar
of serious divers.
On Land at Raja Ampat
One area that is on the radar for serious divers
is Raja Ampat, on the far eastern end of
Indonesia. While many divers join liveaboards
-- once a bargain, now pricey -- there are several good land-based operations, and we'd like to
point out a couple.
Misool Eco Resort consistently gets top-notch
reviews, and Kay Schroer (Templestowe, Australia),
who was there in April, says "Misool is a vast,
patrolled, marine-protected area, and as a result,
the walls and reefs are covered with healthy hard
and soft corals, brilliantly colorful on top of the reef.
Reefs are teaming with fish of every color and size,
and we saw oceanic mantas on our last dive. The
dive guides are experienced and great at spotting
all the tiny pygmy seahorses and more. The resort,
with its water cottages situated over the lagoon, is
wonderful. From the deck or dining area, you can
see turtles, sharks and other fish. The covered and
outdoor dining areas are lovely and the food delicious,
though don't expect fish -- Misool is a no-take
zone." Amazing, isn't it, how divers love fresh fish
dinners, then lament the paucity of decent-sized fish on the reefs? (www.misool.info)
"Plastic bags were floating all over,
and down on the bottom, hurting
photography. On top, they looked like
jellyfish, until you got close."
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Another fine choice is Sorido Bay Resort, built and managed by Dutchman Max Ammer,
who pioneered Raja Ampat diving in the '90s.
Valera Saknenko (Richmond Hill, Ontario), there
in December, says, "I could not imagine a better
dive resort (Editor's note: They have also been
to Misool Eco Resort). SBR is a very small resort,
maximum 18 guests. All cottages are very spacious
and located on a nice sandy beach, about
10 meters from water. Diving was fantastic. I was
overwhelmed with the variety and number of fish
and beauty of corals. At the site Manta Dropoff,
mantas were on top of each other and on top of
divers. There were many black-tip sharks, wobbegong
sharks, crocodilefish, schools of bumphead
parrotfish, huge schools of jacks, barracudas, sweetlips everywhere. Currents could be very
strong, but guides were very careful to avoid any
troubles. At Manta Dropoff, they actually secured
a rope to accommodate a safety stop because the
current was very strong." Saknenko noted that as
vegans, she and her buddy had some difficulty
with the Indonesian food. You can see videos
from her trip at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCYHkMWAhmvcH02V1qDM1-8w (https://papua-diving.com/our-resort)
Muck Junk
Not all is pristine in Indonesia, especially in the
Lembeh Straits, where Terry Anderson (Bryan, TX)
was appalled by the trash he saw on his January
trip. "The large amount of plastic bags was distressing.
My first visit was in 2012, when there were
about 11 resorts; now there are about 17 in Lembeh
Straits. The resorts will have to get together and stop
the local people from throwing plastic bags into the
Straits, and into the streams that unload into the
Straits. They were floating all over, and down on the
bottom, hurting photography. On top, they looked
like jellyfish until you got close. Sure am glad that
I have hundreds of pictures from my earlier trips,
because I won't return. Really a shame." And sadly, it will take far more than the resorts to solve the problem, because the rivers of Asia are full of plastic,
all pouring plastic daily into the sea, too much
of which gets ingested by sea creatures. Only strong
governmental action everywhere can resolve the
problem, but these countries don't have the infrastructure
to deal with it.
That said, Lembeh is still mecca for muck divers.
Years ago, we wrote about Lembeh's Cassowary
Lodge, now reborn as Solitude, as Diane Smith
(Irvine CA) discovered when she tried to track down
her old favorite. "The grounds are beautiful, with
lush shrubbery, trees, and orchids. We managed to
book the two best "rooms," Villas 1 and 2, which
have large balconies overlooking the straits. They
are spacious and comfortably furnished, with large
bathrooms. The restaurant has a fairly varied, morethan-
adequate menu with nice choices, like cashew
chicken and egg drop soup. The dive operation has
extremely personable and knowledgeable divemasters;
they and the crew were friendly, welcoming,
and found critters that would be completely impossible
to spot without them. They even took requests
for specific critters, and almost always delivered. Lembeh Straits is the gold standard for weird creature
features. The Lembeh Rule is, 'If you think it's
an animal, it's an animal. If you don't think it's an
animal, it's an animal. If you are sure it's trash (and
there is a lot of that -- it's not called muck diving for
nothing), it's either covering up an animal, or it is an
animal.' Our divemaster picked up what we thought
was a large handful of trash, and slowly picked it
apart, discarding wads of algae and miscellaneous
things like limpets, barnacles, trash and weeds. After
a few minutes of watching him gently pull off wads
of yucky material, the trash moved its legs. It was a carrier crab that had gotten carried away with
camouflage to the point it couldn't move and had
become a hoarder crab. He cleaned the crab up, put
it down, and it walked away, still looking like a pile
of trash. There are aliens on earth, and at least some
of them live in Lembeh . . . The dive sites are five to
15 minutes from the resort, and there is shore diving
right off the resort." (www.solitude-lembeh.com)
Select a Shop with Its Own Boats
Over the years, we've noted that one must be
careful signing up with Cozumel dive operators that don't have their own dive boats and then put
their divers on boats owned by others. Raymond
Haddad (Candiac, Quebec) learned that in December
when "I booked five days' diving with Maple Leaf
Scuba. (What can I say ... I am Canadian!) I would
be picked up by a taxi around 8:30 a.m. for the port,
where things got messy. A lot of people getting to
their boats, tanks being carried all over the place,
looking for your group and guide. Not all boats are
large and comfortable, with toilets. Maple Leaf Scuba
charters different boats, depending on how many
divers it has, and will hire freelance guides to help,
so you're mixed with other groups on the same boat.
By the time you leave the port, around one hour has
passed ... a lot of waiting! The boats had little dry
storage space, no tables for cameras, no rinse buckets
for cameras -- just basic boats. For three days, I
had a different guide every time. I was one of the only people diving nitrox, so interval times between
dives were all more than 90 minutes. With having
many groups on the same boat, we would have to
wait, on average, 15 to 20 minutes on the surface for
a pickup. Six hours just to do two dives!" There are
plenty of good operators on Cozumel with their own
boats (e.g., Living Underwater or Aldora), and the
best place to find them is on the Undercurrent website,
either in our past reviews or in reader reports.
Maybe Our Bonaire Review Missed the Mark
We carried a lukewarm review last summer of Dive Friends and the Courtyard by Marriott in
Bonaire, crediting it mainly as a place where one
could go burn off some Marriott Hotel Miles. But
after reading the May trip report from longtime Undercurrent subscriber Neal Langerman (San
Diego, CA), I think we were too kind. Yes, having
someone steal your wife's brand-new Suunto
computer from a table in the dive area out of
range of the security camera is enough to upset
you. But the overall operation didn't measure up.
"Misinformation and confused communications
marked the nine days we dove with them. The Dive
Friends employee who checked us in exuded hostility.
She seemed to have no idea of the plans we had
made with other employees via email while setting
up our package, and even less interest in hearing
about them. She just handed us a piece of paper with our schedule for the next nine days and told us
we had no choice -- this was what we were signed
up for. We were expected to provide our own
transportation via taxi to the three different shore
dive sites set up for that first day, disregarding our
request made two months prior for an afternoon
boat dive . . . A few divemasters were exceptional
and made up for the others, who were gruff, callous
and apparently burned out by their jobs . . . We had reserved a morning two-tank dive every day from
the Courtyard pier, and we were told, in writing,
to show up at 8:30 a.m. But by the second day, we
were being rushed to have our gear on board by
8:00 a.m. and departed by 8:05 a.m., because of divers
who needed to be picked up at other locations.
On Day Four, when we arrived at the dock, we were
told we would be trucked to a different Dive Friends
location because a group of 10 divers had arrived
and took the entire boat. On the fifth day, we were
to show up by 7:50 a.m. The hotel's breakfast service
began at 7 a.m. Diving for two cost us just over
$1,800 for a total of 44 dives over nine days. The Courtyard was a good business-class Courtyard,
but not a dive resort. The rooms had zero accommodations
for dive gear. The food-service schedule
was good for those attending a conference, but not
for divers trying to meet a boat schedule. And the
location does not have a house reef." So, fellow
subscribers, if you're headed to Bonaire, you're far
better-off elsewhere -- unless you must rid yourself
of the Marriott miles.
Yes, having someone steal your wife's
brand new Suunto computer from a
table in the dive area out of range of the
security camera is enough to upset you.
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And a note on air travel: While our Truk Lagoon reviewer flew to Chuuk on United, which requires
a stop in Honolulu, then Guam, with maybe a layover,
Tim Barden (Waltham, MA) points out that it
might be wiser to take a one-stop flight to Tokyo,
then a connector to Chuuk.
Two Liveaboards with Great Diving
I'll tell you one reason why European divers are
a lot smarter than American and Canadian divers:
They dive the Red Sea, while North American divers
remain skeptical of traveling there. But not Ed
Noga, of Akron, OH, who went aboard the Emperor
Superior in March, and says, "The Red Sea is an
inexpensive diving destination, loaded with sea life
of all sizes, healthy coral and interesting wrecks.
The renowned Thistlegorm lived up to its billing.
The reefs are in exceptional condition, full of fish,
from huge Napoleon wrasses to nudibranchs and
everything in between. The only thing lacking was
sharks. The Emperor Superior is a solid ship with
plenty of room, and the ship's crew and divemasters
were friendly and highly professional. I was
impressed by how the divemasters protect the reefs -- drift down to the coral and you'll get dragged
off. On one occasion, some idiot from another boat
was shooting pictures while kneeling in the sand
with his fins smacking the coral behind him. The
divemaster grabbed his fins and pulled him off.
That seemed to irritate the diver -- but hey, this is
a reason why those reefs are so healthy. We had a
number of encounters with schools of dolphins at
one site -- that alone was worth the price of admission.
All of the other divers on this trip lived in
Great Britain. Traveling in the Middle East isn't particularly risky if you avoid conflict areas, but
don't worry about the Red Sea departures from
Hurghada or Sharm el Sheikh. Heck, the week I
was on the Emperor Superior, there were six shootings
in my hometown." (www.emperordivers.com/liveaboards-fleet-superior.php)
Some divers have spent big bucks to travel to
the Maldives, southwest of Sri Lanka, only to be
disappointed with the reef conditions. But under
the guidance of an experienced captain on the right
itinerary, it is some of the world's best diving, as Timothy Barden (Waltham, MA) found in April. "I
can't give enough compliments about the Manthiri or its crew and dive staff. The berths are the largest
I have seen on any liveaboard I've been on. The AC
is quiet and complemented by an overhead fan. All
the cabins are plumbed for a regular flush toilet,
and showers aren't restricted because they make
their own water. There's even a mini-fridge in the
berth for water, soda and beer . . . I have no idea
how the cooks can produce so much tasty food in
such a small galley . . . The current ranged from
mild to moderate, and we had to deploy our reef
hooks a few times. The visibility rarely exceeded 60
feet and occasionally dropped to 40 feet. We were lucky to see two whale sharks. Manta rays showed
up on many dives; once we watched six cavorting
at a feeding station. Spotted eagle rays and other
rays were aplenty, along with eels on every dive.
We saw spotted morays, green morays, honeycombed
morays, ribbon eels and garden eels, along
with turtles that ignored us, even when treated to
a strobe flash from a foot away. Large nurse sharks
were often resting in nooks, and it was a rare dive
without one or more white-tip, black-tip or reef
sharks. Octopuses seemed to be everywhere, and
we caught several instances of 'octopus sex' on camera. Notable critter finds were lettuce-leaf frogfish,
various dartfish, a juvenile pipefish, shrimp,
lobsters, nudibranchs, etc. I was impressed by the
sheer multitude of fish. Some schools were fish I'd
only seen singly or in pairs, never in schools. I saw
no sign of coral bleaching at any sites. A visit to
the Maldives should be on everyone's bucket list." (www.manthiriliveaboard.com)
That does it for this month. When researching
a dive trip, be sure to review the hundreds
of reports we receive annually and post on our
website (www.undercurrent.org/UCnow/dive_reviews/all_destinations.html). Our readers are
experienced and truthfully report their findings.
You'll find no better source of information to help
you plan your next trip.
-- Ben Davison