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Dear Fellow Diver,
Sweet words toward the end of our diving briefing: "Since this is an easy dive, if you want to go unguided as a buddy team, you can leave now." Five minutes later, my buddy and I stepped off the stern of Discovery II. Finning in zero current and 81°F water with 80-foot visibility, we reached the reef where a cloud of anthias surrounded healthy pillar coral. An octopus pretended to be one more pillar and watched me with a calm eye. Below, a minefield of orange-lined triggerfish competed for nesting space, performing their elaborate dance. Pairs of Red Sea bannerfish and masked butterflyfish cruised the reef, and I spotted an occasional nudibranch on the sloping wall.
Juvenile and adult lyretail hawkfish hovered
around coral heads, staying safe from the
constant stream of larger predators. After a
leisurely 75 minutes, we were back on Discovery
II, ready for lunch.
I had initially booked my trip on the
Tillis, but shortly after the Sea Story
capsized and sank in November, Dive Pro
Liveaboard, which operated both boats, canceled
my booking. Having had a good trip previously
on Discovery I, I chose its sister ship, the
37-meter Discovery II, which offered a similar
itinerary in June and took fewer divers than
most other liveaboards.
Our first dive was a checkout at Small Gifton, about two hours from
Hurghada. It was an easy dive to 60 feet on a sloping reef wall with lots of
hard and some soft corals. Six-foot morays were plentiful, as were anemonefish
and lionfish. Unlike Caribbean lionfish, these were out hunting during the day,
making for a more dramatic display. At the end of the checkout, we were all
required to shoot our SMBs, but snorkelers had invaded the surface, making the
exercise less about proving we could operate our SMBs and more about target
practice, hitting snorkelers instead. While we saw boats with snorkelers and
divers at several sites during our trip, the sites were generally uncrowded.
But to ensure we would climb aboard the right boat, Discovery II had a drop
line to 5 meters, with the boat's flag on it so we could easily find it....
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