Make no mistake: the waters of Papua New Guinea offer the proverbial "once-in-alifetime"
experience. I know. I've made two "once-in-a-lifetime" trips to PNG and hope
to make more.
For this trip, I chose Mike Ball's newly-built, twin-hulled, burnished aluminum
beauty, the Paradise Sport. Although the Paradise was departing at this time from
Alotau and the crew was collecting lists of lots of little things that needed refitting
when she headed back for her home port in Townsville, Australia, I would be nit-picking
to report on anything about the ship that caused the least hassle.
The large and luxurious staterooms are individually air-conditioned, a private
shower has unlimited hot and cold water, and there are always fresh, clean towels. Two
of the "suites" not only have king beds but also tv monitors so you can watch whatever
is in the tape deck upstairs in the lounge or, if you choose, plug and play your own
dive videos before everybody else starts yelling to see the octopi you captured mating
in mid-water. The Paradise has GPS navigation and satellite uplink for Internet services
(e-mail, for example) or cell phone service from anywhere on the high seas!
The food was a definite draw, with five meals a day--most of which scored tens, or
at least a 9+. Everything was excellent with lots of fresh fruits and veges and cookie
and cake snacks served all day. Breakfasts were generally high-carbo meals such as
pancakes, toasts, eggs if desired, bowls of fruit salad, Aussie bacon, and occasionally
frittatas or fish. Lunches usually featured three to five dishes such as fajitas, spiced and sauced fish, pork stirfry, and a big salad bowl daily. Dinners, with four to
five main dishes, were the great meal. Fish, often fresh tuna, might be served both
grilled and in a lime sauce along with well-barbecued steaks, plenty of wine, good
music, and great company.
Every aspect of the Mike Ball Diving Program is carefully thought out and executed
(too well thought out, in one case: at the end of the trip they told us we "must" fill
out a marketing questionnaire for Mike Ball's benefit, which offended many onboard).
Our director of dive ops, Wayne Fox, was in charge of virtually everything from
drawing divesite briefings to monitoring Nitrox fills to overseeing profiles of those
who like long bottom times. Ball has a "Solo Diver Program" available after a checkout,
waiver, and "swear-to-God-strapped-on-pony-bottle." Then those of you who like being
alone with the sharks can get all the adrenaline
you want!
The dive deck for giant strides, ladder/
platform entries, or Zodiac rides is sizable
and well-equipped. They meticulously govern the
Nitrox and straight-air operations so that
you'd barely notice they served both brands at
the pumps. The crew onboard during my trip,
especially Wayne, Steven, and Junior, deserve
special mention for making life easy.
Slipping out of port at Alotau (Gurney is
the local airstrip), we headed off for seven
days of diving and cultural wonders. Milne Bay
has more islands per measure than any other
region of PNG, giving us deep blue vertical
walls, lagoons, coral heads and bommies, current
dives with lots of sharks, secure coves
for night dives, and some sites with nearly all
types of diving within the secure zone of the
ship.
We even got to dive on a well-preserved B-17
bomber in about 150 fsw. The captain had
ditched the "Black Jack" on the reef off a
small village near Keast Reef after returning
from a bombing run. The islanders rescued the
crew of ten, and the Aussies picked them up a
day or two later. We visited the village and
spoke to several men who had taken part in the
1945 rescue.
The bomber, however, was merely great--which
meant that it wasn't the best of our diving by
a long shot. Right off we hit Banana Bommie,
with incredible numbers and types of hard and
soft coral and massive schools of baitfish,
schools of tuna, mackerel, bumpheaded parrot
fish, and pink, blue, and yellow pointed-nosed
parrot fish. I saw a black nudibranch with
vivid, internally-lit blue dayglo decorations.
Then it was on to Sponge Wall, where huge
red and black Spanish Dancers, with a little
encouragement, danced an open-water flamenco, skirts undulating to the beat of silent
music. The next stop was "Humann's Color
Book," which, oddly, I found to be without
interest, but Cecilia's Reef provided a
thrilling dive. At dusk, I went straight
to the point of the bommie where the current
is strongest and watched the reef
explode with life. No matter how Zen my
buddy and I might have been, the swirling
thousands of synchronized creatures
streaming in every conceivable direction
got us twirling, tumbling, laughing into
our regulators, and gradually experiencing
creeping euphoria--and all at a mere 30
fsw. Clown-like surgeon fish chasing each other in mating circles, rivers of bonito-like
silver slivers about a foot long, chevron barracuda by the dozens, mean trevally out for
dinner, rainbow runners and fusiliers--the vast assemblage overwhelmed me.
I'm typically a wall diver, and absolutely not a photographer. So the notion of
"muck diving" at Lawadi (or Dinah's Reef) in less than 50 feet of water was nothing I
looked forward to--until I discovered huge mating octopi; all colors of mantis shrimp;
blue ribbon eels; giant anemones rising out of the sand at night, looking like Stephen
King creatures with golden arms; female cuttle fish displaying outrageous colors; ghost
pipe fish; demon scorpions; lion fish; sea horses; many frog fish: yup, it ranked among
my most exotic dives ever. Village folks here were roasting pigs and dogs for a funeral
right at our stern, leading to morbid and self-protective joking, but it didn't dim
anyone's enthusiasm for the diving.
At Observation Point, the dive ops manager knew the homes of all the exotic residents
of this little bay: large mantis shrimp pushing rubble out of their holes, sand
anemones with anemone fish and bizarre, transparent green anemone shrimp dancing around
their edges, bulldozer shrimp clearing endless rubble from their lairs while their
sentinel shrimp Gobi stood by like military guards, guaranteeing the safety of the
country. One 'dozer even had two symmetrical shrimp Gobi soldiers, shoulders high and
eyes darting everywhere, simultaneously looking for trouble that never erupted.
Residents of a small nearby village camped next to our ship from our afternoon arrival
to our morning departure. At night, small fires blazed up along the shore, in
contrast to the safety lights illuminating our giant canoe. From little boys to old men
to mothers and young girls, we were surrounded by a constantly changing flotilla of
outriggers--some folks just curious, some doing business--while boys free-dived in the
shallow water to watch us overdressed, overteched dive monsters take so seriously our
pursuit of the strangest collection of tropical ocean animals anyone aboard had ever
seen in one place.
-- E. M.
Diver's Compass: I booked through Adventure Express, 800-442-0289 or
contact Mike Ball direct at 800-952-4319/520-556-9590...10-day trips
run from $2150 to $3350 . . .the Paradise Sport offers full repair
facilities, world-class photo and video shop, gear, computer, and
camera/video rentals, daily E-6 slide processing, and onboard PADI
Nitrox course...easy checkout dive, c-cards checked...except for
planned aircraft wreck dive at 150' we planned our own profiles...
dives were recorded by the crew after surfacing...tanks were aluminum
80s...malaria is still prevalent in the area...air temperatures in March/April were
85-92°F., water 82-86°F...beer and drinks were available for $2-3 Australian, free wine
with meals...lounge features a well-stocked library.